The classic Tampere townscape: Tammerkoski flowing next to the old Finlayson industrial complex.

Dubbed the Manchester of Finland for its industrial past, Tampere offers diverse treats to visitors all year round.

Known for its location between lakes Näsijärvi and Pyhäjärvi, Tampere is the biggest inland city in the Nordic countries, with a population of around 210,000. In 2009 it was chosen as the best city travel destination in Finland by domestic travellers. It’s not hard to see why: the city delights with its all-round services, historical and cultural vibe and beautiful nature.

The city centre itself is quite small and easy to get the run of. Tampere was founded on the shores of the Tammerkoski rapids flowing between the two lakes, and the official national landscape still dominates the city scenery. In the 19th century, Tammerkoski supported the city’s industrialisation, and on its banks the modernised Finlayson-Tampella redbrick factory areas still shape the city’s essence. In fact, the trend of old industrial sites blending with modern urbanity is a defining characteristic of Tampere’s rugged beauty.

Going over Tammerkoski is Hämeenkatu, the main street, and next to the crossing lies the central square, surrounded by many of Tampere’s important buildings. Together with the streets around it, Hämeenkatu holds a large share of the city’s shopping and eating opportunities, with most of the hotels and attractions within walking distance of each other.

Lake Näsijärvi offers many outdoor activities. Näsinneula tower seen in the background.

Diverse possibilities

Tampere is easily reachable by train or coach, with the fastest train connection from Helsinki taking only 1.5 hours. And for the air traffickers, the Tampere-Pirkkala airport with international connections lies 17 km away. When in town, you can choose from an array of activities, depending on the time of year.

You won’t find your Carnaby Streets or Fifth Avenues here, but Tampere has a lot of shopping opportunities from smaller specialised shops to malls. For a whole-day shopping experience, you can also head to Ideapark mall 12 km south of Tampere, offering almost 200 shops, restaurants and cafes. As well as offering your usual shops and eateries, Tampere has plenty of beautiful churches, charming cafes and intriguing cultural sights to explore. Wander around the vitalised historical industrial areas, feel the old Tampere come alive in the Stable Yards, head to one of Tampere’s many museums or see the Tampere Cathedral, concealing some wonderful frescoes by renowned Finnish symbolist Hugo Simberg. Or indulge in a day of fun in Särkänniemi Adventure Park, voted the top leisure centre in the country, guaranteeing a merry day out for all ages.

If wanting an overview of the city and its surroundings, take a lift to the top of Näsinneula tower, Tampere’s most famous landmark rising to 168 metres in the Näsijärvi shore. For a slightly less dizzy overlook, head to Pispala ridge or the Pyynikki observation tower, where in addition to admiring the beautiful lake scenery you can taste one of Tampere’s most famous treats; the tower café’s doughnuts, highly appreciated by locals and visitors alike. “It’s a must-visit, at least once a summer,” says Tampere-resident Tanja Juvani. “The best doughnuts in the country, plus a great view of the city.” And as we’ve opened the treasure chest of local delicacies, I dare you to try another, the local blood sausage (mustamakkara). It’s no beauty to behold, but when eaten with lingonberry jam, preferably in a traditional market square surrounding, it gives an authentic taste of what Tampere is all about.

If on a longer stay with time to go outside Tampere, the neighbouring region offers plenty to do and see also.

A culture city
Koskipuisto Park is a popular picnic spot.
Tampere is widely acknowledged as the theatre capital of Finland. The definitive highlight is the Tampere Theatre Festival, one of Europe’s most notable professional theatre festivals showcasing topnotch Finnish and international theatre. Apart from that the city boasts a wide repertoire of traditional and modern theatre, with something to be found for all ages and tastes. But a word of warning is in order: the shows in the larger theatres tend to be fully booked quite early, so book your tickets well in advance or head straight to the ticket counters and cross your fingers for unclaimed tickets. Tampere’s other speciality is the abundant supply of museums, many of them stemming from the city’s working-class roots. History buffs will enjoy the Lenin Museum’s Soviet nostalgia and the civil-war-themed exhibition, Tampere 1918, at the Museum Centre Vapriikki. Visual arts are on show at several museums and galleries, while kids should head to either the world’s first Spy Museum or the Moominvalley Museum. A heads up on one of this year’s highlights: the works of Swiss impressionist H R Giger, known for his characters from the Alien films, will be on show in the Tampere Art Museum starting 30 January. Every March, the anticipated Tampere Film Festival brings short film fans and experts to town. Musically, one annual pinnacle is the Tampere Jazz Happening, which takes place in November. The four-day festival, closing in on its 30th year, brings in top names of international modern jazz and introduces rising Finnish talents.

Around Tampere

Thanks to the surrounding lakes and forests, Tampere remains well connected to nature. During the winter one can try ice swimming, tour skating, cross-country skiing, or take a leisurely stroll on the frozen lakes or the forest trails of Kauppi and Pyynikki. For wilder scenery, head to Helvetinjärvi National Park, some 60 km from Tampere. And there’s no better way to end a brisk outdoor excursion than on the benches of Rajaportti sauna in Pispala. It’s the oldest public sauna still in function, oozing tradition and the genuine sauna spirit. Go in peace, and enjoy the purifying effect of the full-bodied steams.

Come summer, and the lakes create a perfect setting for cruises, available to several destinations. The Tammerkoski banks come alive with events and terraces, the numerous parks are filled by picnic-goers and the lakeside beaches get crowded with sunbathers. Head to Hatanpää Arboretum or Näsi Park for a beautiful summer scenery, or join the summer devotees at Pyynikki beach.

For me, it’s the lovely combination of tradition, small town charm and big city action and activities that make Tampere such a great place to visit. The city’s warm and welcoming atmosphere never fails to delight.

VELI-MATTI PELTOLA - HT
City of tampere

For more information on Tampere: www.gotampere.fi and www.tampere.fi

Eat & Drink

There is something for everyone in Tampere’s restaurant scene, from fine dining and known Finnish chain restaurants to ethnic food. And the city looks after its thirsty visitors as well. For a thorough guide, check out www.huviopas. net. Here are a few top Tampere tips: – The rotating Restaurant Näsinneula doesn’t just have the best view in town, but probably the best food as well. It offers quality cuisine For more information on Tampere: www.gotampere.fi and www.tampere.fi with a great range of Finnish ingredients used. If you are looking for a dining experience that is out of the ordinary and premium prices, choose Näsinneula and try one of their frequently updated menus. – The Plevna Brewery Pub & Restaurant in the Finlayson area not only offers a good selection of beers made in their premises, but delicious food served in a special atmosphere as well. The place is known for its sausage dishes, but has a wide-ranging menu with all sorts. Try the pyttipannu (similar to bubble and squeak): heavenly, I say. – Pub Tuulensuu in Hämeenpuisto has a really warm feel to it, a variety of imported beers and a mouthwatering menu ranging from finger food to grander meat dishes. – O’Connels Irish Pub in Rautatienkatu welcomes you with a genuinely cosy atmosphere and a livingroom vibe. It also features a nice list of draught beers and ciders, with friendly staff. – Telakka in Tullikamarin aukio is a restored redbrick warehouse turned bohemian bar-theatre-gallery with a unique decor. It offers a very enjoyable coffee break as well as a night out with regular live music. – Vohvelikahvila is a hidden gem in Ojakatu, near Tammer park, which serves yummy waffles and savoury coffee in an adorable setting.

Blood sausage isn't the only treat on offer in Tampere.